Saturday, January 22, 2005

The Grapevine Market and Café, Donaldsonville, LA

The Grapevine Market & Café, 211 Railroad Avenue, Donaldsonville,
LA 70346 (225-473-8463).

Regarded by many lovers of fine cuisine as an unquestionable authority, Emeril is admired for his culinary expertise and undisputable taste. Emeril knows the best food and the best restaurants. In contrast to Emeril, I sometimes go to restaurants to enjoy the food and surroundings with no preconceived notion of what authorities regard as outstanding.

Two summers ago my daughter and son-in-law were living near the west bank of the Mississippi River. Although they resided in what was once the town of Modeste, their mailing address was Donaldsonville. I went to visit their animals while they sneaked away to Grand Isle for a vacation.

Every day during the animal sitting interlude, I explored the town of Donaldsonville, a magnificent place. Donaldsonville is so interesting with its quaint houses and historical buildings that a tourist would pay to go there if he knew about it.

The unpretentious settlement squashed next to the River contains monuments explaining its unique Civil War history, has a striking Catholic church with an imposing steeple, and displays its history of once being the capitol of Louisiana.

One day I wandered into the Grapevine, a restaurant with an unpretentious storefront on the main street known as Railroad Avenue. Inside! What a surprise! An art display that was worthy of paying an admission fee covered the walls. Everyone on the staff was friendly, not superficial.

The waitress seated me by a window, through which I could enjoy more art in the sunny courtyard and enjoy studying the cat living out there.

The warm French bread was irresistible. On the menu were too many good choices and no bad ones. Two men at the next table told me they had traveled from the southwest corner of Louisiana to have a great meal.

They were eating turtle soup. If they had traveled many miles for no purpose except to eat a great meal and chosen the Grapevine over all the restaurants they could have visited in New Orleans, I realized that I should try what they were having. I could not imagine that anything could taste better than the crawfish bisque I was eating.

I asked the waitress, “Could I please have a spoonful of the turtle soup?” She brought me a bowl of it!

The next time I visited my family, my son-in-law Mike had the pleasure of entertaining me on Wednesday, his day off. We went to the Grapevine, after I explained to him that his own little town of Donaldsonville contained restaurants of the quality of elite New Orleans places. He could not refuse to agree with me.

Although Mike and my daughter Christie have visited the Grapevine several times, she is still a Grapevine neophyte because she cannot pass up one of the salads. She really is not unobservant though: she taught all of us, including some of the staff, that the bread needs to be dipped into a little bowl of the house dressing.

Last year, a friend of mine, Dr. Paul Elliott, a Dallas Internet marketer—in my opinion the world’s most talented marketer—visited us in Donaldsonville. Paul is also the most proficiently-talking silver-tongued speaker—his specialty is copywriting—I’ve ever known; and he is a gastronomic marvel.

Although his mouth has never met food he didn’t like, he has the ability to discern what is really good. His taste buds are so acute that he can name every ingredient used in my dishes, sometimes as many as twenty.

His tongue went wild in the Grapevine. After we consumed the crawfish bread as an appetizer and the special of the day, he asked in pure Texas vernacular, “What is the piece of resistance?”

“White chocolate bread pudding,” Miss Effie replied without hesitation.

Would you believe that Cynthia gave me the official recipe for her White Chocolate Bread Pudding to share with my readers?

You can find your copy at my website at http://fwlcookbook.com/WhiteChocBreadPudding.

This Christmas, Christie and I made white chocolate bread pudding for her friend Melissa. We didn’t want to make the entire amount as I have been doing; so we shrank the recipe. Out of respect for the Grapevine, I dare not tell you how I divided the ingredients. When we make the bread pudding, it is so good that it disappears instantly, but its taste pales in comparison to la pièce de résistance. Although Cynthia told me exactly how to make the dish, I believe the secret is in the bread.

Mary Tutwiler, Emeril’s staff writer, has written a charming review of the Grapevine and posted it in “Emeril's Notes From the Kitchen,” on the website, ttp://www.emerils.com/cooking/archives.

She reminds us that the Acadians first arrived in New Orleans in 1755 after being exiled from Nova Scotia. One of the their early settlements was a trading post that became known as Donaldsonville, named after the land owner William Donaldson.

Donaldsonville, sitting in the heart of the Second Acadian Coast, was first a Cajun settlement and also a Creole community with sugar cane plantations around it.

She mentions several of the wonderful items on the Grapevine menu:
· Eggs Begnaud
· Shrimp and Okra Gumbo
· Duck and Andouille Gumbo
· Dickie's Barbeque Shrimp Pont Breaux Style
· Cynthia's Oysters Des Amis
· Eggplant Wheels
· Crawfish Pie
· Spinach and Andouille Stuffed Drum

She concludes by saying that the Grapevine is a place to celebrate “just because” and that she will stake her reputation on it.

The Grapevine is truly on the way to everywhere.
Mary Lou

Thursday, January 20, 2005

Armand's, Gramercy, LA

Armand’s, a deliciously decorated new restaurant in deep French country, is housed within Chris’s Flowers & Gifts located at 313 Main Street, Gramercy, LA 70052.

Behind the main dining room sits a New Orleans style courtyard, where on special occasions there is enjoyable live music— not too loud. Call Jim Rooker, Armand’s executive chef, at 225-869-8440 to reserve space for a party or have him cater something extra special for you.

When I asked him to give me his favorite recipe, he gave me two that he received from John Martin Terranova, deceased, the former executive chef of the Castle, an exquisite restaurant located in the old stables of historic Dunleith Plantation, Natchez, Mississippi.

Grilled Pork Tenderloin and Stir-Fried Collards are featured with Creamed Sweet Potatoes on the Castle’s dinner menu. Jim shared his treasured recipes with me, and I’m giving them to you. Jim’s intimate restaurant will rank among the best in the New Orleans area when the connoisseurs of fine cuisine find it. You can beat the city crowd there and avoid the New Orleans traffic for an unforgettable dining experience.


Pork Tenderloin
1(10 to 12 ounce) pork tenderloin

Marinade:
3 cups teriyaki sauce
½ cup olive oil
¼ cup honey
Chopped garlic
Chopped ginger (Fresh ginger is essential!)
Cilantro

1. Mix marinade ingredients together in a large bowl.
2. Place the trimmed pork tenderloin in marinade and marinate overnight.
3. Grill, bake or sear the tenderloin.If baking, the tenderloin should be baked at 350° for 15 to 20 minutes.If grilling in a charcoal grill, cook the tenderloin for 12 minutes.If searing in a skillet, cook for about 6 minutes on each side.

Note from Mary Lou: This recipe makes more marinade than you will need for the tenderloin.Go ahead and make it though because you can use it later. It would probably store well in the refrigerator, but I honestly don't know. It disappears too fast at my house! We tried marinating some salmon in it and grilling it. I'm telling you the honest truth: I have NEVER tasted anything as delicious as that salmon fresh off the grill!The collards go with the pork loin.

If you think you don’t like collards, you haven’t tasted these collards!

Stir-Fried Greens
2 bunches greens, collards if possible
¼ pound bacon, diced1 red onion, sliced thin
Rice wine vinegar
Salt and pepper

1. Remove stems, then cut greens into thin strips.
2. Wash thoroughly.
3. Render bacon until crisp, add onion and cook onion until onion is done.
4. Add greens and toss in pan.
5. Add salt and pepper to taste, then add vinegar and toss in pan.
6. Remove from heat and keep warm.
7. Serve with Sweet and Sour Sauce (recipe below).

Note: Words are inadequate to tell you how good this sauce is. There is extra sauce, which I use on everything from carrots to Brussels sprouts. These recipes are for restaurant amounts and are quoted exactly as the chefs wrote them.

Sweet and Sour Sauce
6 cups sugar
4 cups red wine vinegar
3 cups teriyaki sauce
Chopped garlic
Chopped ginger
Chopped cilantro
3 cups ketchup
Cornstarch

Mix sugar, vinegar, teriyaki, garlic, and ginger in a pot and bring to a boil.Add cilantro and ketchup and return to a boil.Thicken with a little cornstarch mixed with water. Serve warm.